In a message dated 06/08/2005, JohnJan@........ writes:
http://jclahr.com/science/psn/wooden/
Hi John,
You may need to bend a bit of wire straight at both ends of the spring
and clamp it. One of the problems with spring suspensions is noise from the
loop ends. You could bore a small hole through the 'mass' bolt just under the
head and clamp the wire between two washers? Put a similar clamp bolt on the
frame? Noise can also be minimised by bending the wire to a V instead of a
loop end and using a slightly sharper V of hard metal with a slightly rounded
edge, like they do in weighing scales.
You may get better results from the suspension if, instead of points,
you use a couple of stainless steel ball bearings on the base column and either
a square polished lathe tool or a glass microscope slide on the end of the
arm. 1/4" bearings should do fine. If you just want to 'try it out' you should
be able to buy several sizes of ordinary ball bearings from a cycle shop.
You do need to place a drop of thin oil at the contact point to inhibit
corrosion.
I would be tempted to use a U magnet for the mass, like in the AS-1 and
either a relay or a miniature transformer coil. Larry sells relay coils. To
get good signals, you really need a high gradient magnetic field and lots of
turns, preferably on a square section coil.
Mouser sell a range of small transformers. You remove the I strips from
both ends of the yoke, free up a central E strip on both sides with a knife
blade and then push it out using blocks and a vice. You can then peel off and
extract the remaining E strips to leave you with a nice square sensor coil on
a plastic former. I use them for distance sensors with all the E strips
replaced on one side, in the same way that Sean Morrissey did.
If you use a single vertical magnet, you will likely pick up a lot of
magnetic noise from the power wiring in your house, from fridges, central
heating, electric cookers, from bikes, cars, lorries, trains and from the earth's
field. You will still pick up noise with a U magnet, but it will be less.
Both N & S poles face downward and you are not sensitive to side to side forces.
A totally soft iron shielded Neo quad array would probably be too heavy. The
best way is still to put the coil on the end of the arm with a brass weight
and sit the magnet array out of harm's way on the floor!
I notice that you mentioned damping magnets. Could you make an air
damper with two different sizes of drinks cans, or one drinks can and an open
topped tin set on the ground? The airflow resistance would come from the small
circular but long air gap in between the cans? Maybe this is not too practical.
It could be quite sensitive to air pressure variations. Just an off the cuff
idea.
You can get quite significant damping by drilling a round copper bar and
sliding one pole of a cylindrical Neo magnet just inside it.
I have tried every combination that I can think of for 'flat' magnetic
damping systems. BY FAR THE MOST EFFECTIVE SYSTEM is to use rectangular Neo
magnets mounted on two mild steel plates held apart by mild steel bolts. I use
3.5" x 2" x 1/4" bright mild steel plates and 1/4" mild steel bolts. On one
inner face you place a N and a S Neo bar magnet pair, with the long sides
together. Facing this on the other face is a S and a N Neo bar magnet pair. The
poles are on the flat faces of the magnets. You suspend an Al or Cu damping
blade in the central gap so that it moves at right angles to the long magnet
join and overlaps the magnets by maybe 3/8". This avoids edge force effects
between the blade and the magnets. The fields from the rear of the magnet pairs
are closely linked by the soft iron, so that most of the mmf drives the
fields in the central gap. This system gives a very sharp rate of change of field
at the central join, allowing strong damping on a cental moving Cu / Al
plate.
Have fun!
Regards,
Chris Chapman
In a message dated 06/08/2005, JohnJan@........ writes:
<=
FONT=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000=20
size=3D2>http://jclahr.com/science/psn/wooden/
Hi John,
You may need to bend a bit of wire straight at=20=
both=20
ends of the spring and clamp it. One of the problems with spring suspensions=
is=20
noise from the loop ends. You could bore a small hole through the 'mass' bol=
t=20
just under the head and clamp the wire between two washers? Put a similar cl=
amp=20
bolt on the frame? Noise can also be minimised by bending the wire to a=
V=20
instead of a loop end and using a slightly sharper V of hard metal=
=20
with a slightly rounded edge, like they do in weighing scales.
You may get better results from the=20
suspension if, instead of points, you use a couple of stainless steel b=
all=20
bearings on the base column and either a square polished lathe tool or a=20
glass microscope slide on the end of the arm. 1/4" beari=
ngs=20
should do fine. If you just want to 'try it out' you should be able to buy=20
several sizes of ordinary ball bearings from a cycle shop. You do need=20=
to=20
place a drop of thin oil at the contact point to inhibit corrosion.
I would be tempted to use a U magnet for the ma=
ss,=20
like in the AS-1 and either a relay or a miniature transformer coi=
l.=20
Larry sells relay coils. To get good signals, you really need a high gradien=
t=20
magnetic field and lots of turns, preferably on a square section coil.
Mouser sell a range of small transformers. You=20
remove the I strips from both ends of the yoke, free up a central E str=
ip=20
on both sides with a knife blade and then push it out using blocks=
and=20
a vice. You can then peel off and extract the remaining E strips to lea=
ve=20
you with a nice square sensor coil on a plastic former. I use them for dista=
nce=20
sensors with all the E strips replaced on one side, in the same way tha=
t=20
Sean Morrissey did.
If you use a single vertical magnet, you w=
ill=20
likely pick up a lot of magnetic noise from the power wiring in your house,=20=
from=20
fridges, central heating, electric cookers, from bikes, cars, lorries, train=
s=20
and from the earth's field. You will still pick up noise with a U magnet, bu=
t it=20
will be less. Both N & S poles face downward and you are not sensitive t=
o=20
side to side forces. A totally soft iron shielded Neo quad array would proba=
bly=20
be too heavy. The best way is still to put the coil on the end of the arm wi=
th a=20
brass weight and sit the magnet array out of harm's way on the floor!
I notice that you mentioned damping magnets. Co=
uld=20
you make an air damper with two different sizes of drinks cans, or one drink=
s=20
can and an open topped tin set on the ground? The airflow=20
resistance would come from the small circular but long air gap in between th=
e=20
cans? Maybe this is not too practical. It could be quite sensitive to air=20
pressure variations. Just an off the cuff idea.
You can get quite significant damping by=20
drilling a round copper bar and sliding one pole of a cylindrical Neo=20
magnet just inside it.
I have tried every combination that I can think=
of=20
for 'flat' magnetic damping systems. BY FAR THE MOST EFFECTIVE SYSTEM is to=20=
use=20
rectangular Neo magnets mounted on two mild steel plates held apart by=20=
mild=20
steel bolts. I use 3.5" x 2" x 1/4" bright mild steel plates and 1/4" m=
ild=20
steel bolts. On one inner face you place a N and a S Neo bar magne=
t=20
pair, with the long sides together. Facing this on the other face is a S=20
and a N Neo bar magnet pair. The poles are on the flat faces of the=20
magnets. You suspend an Al or Cu damping blade in the central gap so th=
at=20
it moves at right angles to the long magnet join and overlaps the=20
magnets by maybe 3/8". This avoids edge force effects between the=20
blade and the magnets. The fields from the rear of the magnet pairs are clos=
ely=20
linked by the soft iron, so that most of the mmf drives the fields in t=
he=20
central gap. This system gives a very sharp rate of change of field at=20=
the=20
central join, allowing strong damping on a cental moving Cu /=20
Al plate.
Have fun!
Regards,
Chris Chapman