PSN-L Email List Message
Subject: Re: Digging in...
From: ChrisAtUpw@.......
Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2005 11:10:35 EDT
In a message dated 13/08/2005, dwieck@............ writes:
> Is it a timber house or one with brick/stone walls?
Its brick
> How many stories?
2
> Are they the 4.5 Hz geophones?
yes
Hi Dennis,
I would be optimistic about an underfloor location. Just keep away from
the water supply and waste water pipes and from the foundations. Suggest that
you try it out as your first option?
The good news is I am 200 yards from the nearest road (except for what
comes in my driveway)
That will probably be fine.
> I connected my geophones up to the amplifier in a portable radio and
> listened with headphones. OK, these signals aren't the seismic ones,
> but you can often recognise noise sources by ear easier than trying to
> figure them out from the traces. I start to hear fast cars on the main
> road at about 1 km. There is a slightly depressed water drain on the
> main road about 100 yards away which gives thump signals occasionally
> with passing lorries..... Check for slamming doors and windows, fridge
> start/stop, cooking loads, central heating timing, wind noise.....
Do 'have a listen', see what you can pick up and also take a seismic
recording to find any associated signals.
> Trees may give broad band noise, but this may be more serious for
> the longer period instruments. Aim to keep your sensors at a distance
> equal to the height of the trees, minimum.
This is about impossible on my lot. Even the under the house spot would
not meet this but would probably be the closest.
> You have the problem of long cable runs and probably
> some lightning protection required for installations away from the house.
>> I am used to this. I am a ham and have dealt with tower and coax to my
radios grounding.
Great. There is a lot of ham literature on protection for radio systems.
Is there a problem with moderate (probably less than 100 ft) runs
between the geophones and the amp/filter/A/D or do I need to remote them
(that adds to the waterproof question)?
This depends a lot on your soil conductivity. Wiring under the house is
likely to be partly shielded by the house 'earth'. 100 ft is quite a long
external 'aerial'. I would be inclined to fit some lightning protection where
the cable enters the house, especially if lightning is a 'problem' in your
area. A burnt out seismic system + computer would be expensive. Remember that you
get ground currents for quite some distance around a lightning strike.
Is the utility power wiring to your house below ground or on poles?
Elevated wiring does tend to pick up stronger lightning surges, sometimes from
many miles away.
Regards,
Chris Chapman
In a message dated 13/08/2005, dwieck@............ writes:
<=
FONT=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000=20
size=3D2>> Is it a timber house or one with brick/st=
one=20
walls?
Its brick
> How many stories?
2
> &nb=
sp;=20
Are they the 4.5 Hz geophones?
yes
Hi Dennis,
I would be optimistic about an underfloor locat=
ion.=20
Just keep away from the water supply and waste water pipes and from the=20
foundations. Suggest that you try it out as your first option?
<=
FONT=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size=
=3D2>The good=20
news is I am 200 yards from the nearest road (except for what
comes in=
my=20
driveway)
That will probably be fine.
<=
FONT=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size=
=3D2>> I=20
connected my geophones up to the amplifier in a portable radio and
>=
;=20
listened with headphones. OK, these signals aren't the seismic ones,
&=
gt;=20
but you can often recognise noise sources by ear easier than trying to=20
> figure them out from the traces. I start to hear fast cars on the=
=20
main
> road at about 1 km. There is a slightly depressed water drai=
n on=20
the
> main road about 100 yards away which gives thump signals=20
occasionally
> with passing lorries..... Check for slamming doors a=
nd=20
windows, fridge
> start/stop, cooking loads, central heating timing=
,=20
wind noise.....
Do 'have a listen', see what you can pick up an=
d=20
also take a seismic recording to find any associated signals.
<=
FONT=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000=20
size=3D2>> Trees may give broad band noise, but=
this=20
may be more serious for
> the longer period instruments. Aim to kee=
p=20
your sensors at a distance
> equal to the height of the trees, mini=
mum.=20
This is about impossible on my lot. Even the under the house spot=20
would
not meet this but would probably be the closest.
> You have the problem of long cable runs and=
=20
probably
> some lightning protection required for installations away=20=
from=20
the house.
>> I am used to this. I am a ham and have dealt with tow=
er and=20
coax to my
radios grounding.
Great. There is a lot of ham literature on=20
protection for radio systems.
<=
FONT=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size=
=3D2>Is there=20
a problem with moderate (probably less than 100 ft) runs
between the=20
geophones and the amp/filter/A/D or do I need to remote them
(that add=
s to=20
the waterproof question)?
This depends a lot on your soil conductivity.=20
Wiring under the house is likely to be partly shielded by the house 'earth'.=
100=20
ft is quite a long external 'aerial'. I would be inclined to fit some lightn=
ing=20
protection where the cable enters the house, especially if lightning is a=20
'problem' in your area. A burnt out seismic system + computer would be=20
expensive. Remember that you get ground currents for quite some distance aro=
und=20
a lightning strike.
Is the utility power wiring to your house below=
=20
ground or on poles? Elevated wiring does tend to pick up stronger=
=20
lightning surges, sometimes from many miles away.
Regards,
Chris Chapman
[ Top ]
[ Back ]
[ Home Page ]