In a message dated 26/03/2006, gmvoeth@........... writes:
it is my understanding you want the highest uniform magnetic field possible
and you want the wires to move within that field perpendicular. So to
compliment the field you will put two horseshoe type magnets in opposition with a
gap then have
the coil in the middle with one half cutting the N/S poles and the other
half cutting the S/N poles.
It seems best if the coil is smaller then the magnet
faces and is rectangular rather than circular.
Hi Geoff, Ian,
If you could get several of those old military magnetron magnets like they
use in the old days of electronics that are used for Physics demonstrations
today at the universities you most probably would have the best magnet you can
get. But they look like they weigh 100 lbs each.
They can be used but they are very bulky and don't usually have the pole
shape that you want.
You are much better off with rectangular coils and rectangular magnets.
You need two adjacent areas of opposing high intensity field. NdFeB bar
magnets are not very expensive, but they are very powerful.
The 'I' is soft iron plate.
The 'B' are the support bolts with 3 off nuts locking the plates in
place.
The 'N' and 'S' are 1" square x 1/8" Neo magnets with poles on the
square face.
The 'CC-------CC' is a rectangular frame coil with an open centre and
maybe 3,000 to 5,000 turns, about 1" wide by 1,1/4" long. The coil overlaps the
ends of the magnets coming out of the paper. I used 4 paxolin rods and thin
sheet held together with epoxy glue to make the coil frame. Make a reinforced
hole in the centre so that you can mount the frame on a bolt in a hand drill
to wind on the wire.
Sensor. I have exaggerated the coil to magnet separation.
Magnets 1"squarex1/8" thick with poles on the square face
B B
IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII
B NNNNNNNNNNSSSSSSSSSS B
B B
B <- CC------------------CC -> B
B CC------------------CC B
B B
B SSSSSSSSSSNNNNNNNNNN B
IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII
B B
Damper. Cu is the wide copper damping plate, 1/16" to 1/8" thick
Magnets 1"x1/2"widex1/4" thick with poles on the 1"x1/2" face
View shows the 1/2"x1/4" magnet ends
B 3.5" long B Mild
Steel Plate
IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII 1/4" thick x 2" wide
B NNNNNSSSSS B
B <- CuCuCuCuCuCuCuCuCuCuCuCu -> B 1/4" mild steel bolts
B SSSSSNNNNN B full thread +
3 nuts
IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII
B B
For a Lehman, I use two 1/4" thick bright mild steel plates, 3.5" long by
2" wide. The corners are drilled to take 1/4" mild steel set screws 2.5"
long with mild steel washers and nuts. The two plates are held maybe 3/4" to 1"
apart for a sensor, using three nuts on every bolt. A bolt is firmly secured
to one plate using a nut. The second plate is mounted in between pairs of
nuts on the free thread, to allow the separation of the plates to be adjusted
and locked. Four NdFeB magnets 1/8" thick by 1" square are mounted on the
inside faces of the plates. A N+S pair on one face is opposed by a S+N pair on the
other. The sensor coil is mounted at the centre of the high intensity
magnetic field.
This construction gives quite an effective magnetic and electrostatic screen
around the coil. The external stray field is low. The sensitivity is high
due to the high field and the response is reasonably linear. If you use
rectangular instead of round coils, it can be made very highly linear over +/-1/2"
movement.
For induced current damping, I use four NdFeB bar magnets 1"x1/2"x1/4"
thick in two opposing squares, with the same 1/4" steel plate mounting, but
with a much smaller magnet separation. I use a copper damping plate, 1/16" to
1/8" thick as appropriate, a bit over 2" wide and 2.5" free length. This
allows the arm to swing +/-1/2" without the edge of the copper plate overlapping
the edge of the 1" magnet square. The N+S join of the magnet pairs is set
perpendicular to the direction of motion. The damping is adjusted by varying by
the length of copper tongue overlapping the magnet square and also by varying
the separation of the 1/4" mild steel plates and hence the magnet
separations. Most of the damping occurs close to the central N/S magnet join. This is a
very effective and easily adjusted design of damper.
I have also used soft Al damping plates, but Al is usually more strongly
paramagnetic than the copper is diamagnetic and it has a higher resistivity.
I use the damping plate to physically limit the sideways travel of the
seismometer arm. If the plate is made narrower and the arm drifts, you may get
'odd' force effects as the edge of the plate gets close to the outside edge of
the magnets. Al is usually mildly paramagnetic, but copper is usually
diamagnetic.
I can't imagine how you could safely create a one inch gap with those
monstrous magnets. They would take off a finger or two if you were not careful in
keeping them apart.
With some difficulty and great care! Neo magnets start to get dangerous
above about 1/4" thick, 1/2" square. I have a pair 2" square by 1/2" thick. I
can't put enough finger force on them to even slide them apart. I use wood
blocks and an A frame work bench. Two of these magnets will 'jump together'
if less than about a foot apart. Only ever handle ONE free magnet at a time!
No one talks about safety when playing with springs and stuff so I guess no
amateurs have had any serious accidents trying to build these seismometers.
Oh yes they do! Sean's EMails carried several warnings about dry wall
scraper spring systems.
Construction.
Cut and file the 2"x1/4" bright mild steel to length. Mark out the 3 or 4
bolt holes to choice on one plate, then clamp the two plates together and drill
all the clearance holes through both plates at the same time. Mark the plate
orientation with a centre punch. This ensures perfect bolt alignment.
Degrease, then coat the steel with acid anti rust liquid / paste, leave for ~10 min
and wipe off with a dry tissue. Let the plates dry. Mark the positions of
the magnets, nuts and washers and paint all other surfaces with Hammerite or a
similar anti rust paint.
Lightly grease the bolts, the clearance holes, exposed iron and the
nuts. Fully assemble one plate with bolts and finger tight nuts. Check that the
other plate fits on cleanly and fully tighten the nuts. Fit a second nut on
each bolt leaving about 3/4" thread between the nuts.
Lightly grease and wipe the magnet mounting spaces. Separate a magnet,
clean any dust or debris off it using gaffer sticky tape, apply it to the edge
of the steel plate and slide it into position. Check that a second magnet
has opposite top surface polarity and slide it into position. Check the
orientation of the free plate and assemble opposite polarity magnets on it - a N/S
magnet pair on one plate opposes S/N pair on the other.
Slide the free plate onto the mounting bolts, recheck the magnet
polarity, adjust the nuts to give the desired magnet gap separation and fit the lock
nuts. Wipe off any excess grease.
_http://www.amazingmagnets.com/_ (http://www.amazingmagnets.com/) and
_http://www.kjmagnetics.com/_ (http://www.kjmagnetics.com/) in the US stock
a wide range of NdFeB magnets amongst many other sources.
Geoff, you raised the question of how great a S/N ratio you can get. My
16 bit ADC gives me a 90 dB range. When I was developing my LVDT sensor, I
managed to get about 7 nano metre noise over a 6 mm linear movement with 10 Hz
bandwidth. This is not far short of 120 dB. However, my local ambient ground
noise is well over 10x this and it is strongly dependant on the weather, the
local traffic and the time of day. This is my practical concern and it is the
major limitation for a lot of 'amateur' systems. Many professional systems
use deep boreholes remote from human activity. I agree with Dave on the
desirability of burying geophones to reduce the pickup of surface noise.
With a low noise geophone / coil type amplifier, you should be able to
get quite a bit below 1 micro V input noise for 10 Hz bandwidth without using
'special' circuits. If you were prepared to build a chopper amplifier, you
would likely get below 100 nano V.
Roger Sparks commented on the presence of ocean microseisms masking
small quakes. It is possible to use a twin Tee variable width bandstop filter to
remove ~50 dB of this signal. The signals are usually quite narrow band,
although they do vary in period around the world and with time.
Regards,
Chris Chapman
In a message dated 26/03/2006, gmvoeth@........... writes:
<=
FONT=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size=
=3D2>it is my=20
understanding you want the highest uniform magnetic field possible and you=
=20
want the wires to move within that field perpendicular. So to compliment t=
he=20
field you will put two horseshoe type magnets in opposition with a gap the=
n=20
have
the coil in the middle with one half cutting the N/S poles and the=
=20
other half cutting the S/N poles.
It seems best if the coil is smaller=
=20
then the magnet
faces and is rectangular rather than=20
circular.
Hi Geoff, Ian,
If you=20
could get several of those old military magnetron magnets like they use=20=
in=20
the old days of electronics that are used for Physics demonstrations tod=
ay=20
at the universities you most probably would have the best magnet you can=
=20
get. But they look like they weigh 100 lbs each.
They can be used but they are very bulky and=20
don't usually have the pole shape that you want.
You are much better off with rectangular coils=20
and rectangular magnets.
You need two adjacent areas of opposing high=20
intensity field. NdFeB bar magnets are not very expensive, but they are very=
=20
powerful.
The 'I' is soft iron plate.
The 'B' are the support bolts with 3 off nuts=20
locking the plates in place.
The 'N' and 'S' are 1" square x 1/8" Neo magnet=
s=20
with poles on the square face.
The 'CC-------CC' is a rectangular frame coil w=
ith=20
an open centre and maybe 3,000 to 5,000 turns, about 1" wide by 1,1/4" long.=
The=20
coil overlaps the ends of the magnets coming out of the paper. I used=20
4 paxolin rods and thin sheet held together with epoxy glue to make the=
=20
coil frame. Make a reinforced hole in the centre so that you can mount the f=
rame=20
on a bolt in a hand drill to wind on the wire.
Sensor. I have exaggerated the coil to magnet separation.
Magnets 1"squarex1/8" thick with poles on the square face
B &nbs=
p; &n=
bsp; =
&nbs=
p; &n=
bsp; B
IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII=
IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII
B &nbs=
p; NNNNNNNNNNSSSSSSSSSS =
B
B &nbs=
p; &n=
bsp; =
&nbs=
p; &n=
bsp; B
B &nbs=
p; =20
<- CC------------------CC =20
->  =
; B
B &nbs=
p; CC------=
------------CC &n=
bsp; B
B &nbs=
p; &n=
bsp; =
&nbs=
p; &n=
bsp; B
B &nbs=
p; =20
SSSSSSSSSSNNNNNNNNNN &n=
bsp; =20
B
IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII=
IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII
B &nbs=
p; &n=
bsp; =
&nbs=
p; &n=
bsp; B
Damper. Cu is the wide copper damping plate, 1/16" to 1/8"=20
thick
Magnets 1"x1/2"widex1/4" thick with poles on the 1"x1/2" face
View shows the 1/2"x1/4" magnet ends
B &nbs=
p; &n=
bsp; 3.5" long &nbs=
p; &n=
bsp; B =
;=20
Mild Steel Plate
IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII=
IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII=20
1/4" thick x 2" wide
B &nbs=
p; &n=
bsp;NNNNNSSSSS &n=
bsp; =
B
B <-=20
CuCuCuCuCuCuCuCuCuCuCuCu -> B 1/4" mild ste=
el=20
bolts
B &nbs=
p; =20
SSSSSNNNNN =
&nbs=
p; =20
B full thread + 3 nuts
IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII=
IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII
B &nbs=
p; &n=
bsp; =
&nbs=
p; &n=
bsp; =20
B
For a Lehman, I use two 1/4" thick bright mild steel=20
plates, 3.5" long by 2" wide. The corners are drilled to take 1/4" mild stee=
l=20
set screws 2.5" long with mild steel washers and nuts. The two plates a=
re=20
held maybe 3/4" to 1" apart for a sensor, using three nuts on every bolt.=20
A bolt is firmly secured to one plate using a nut. The second plate is=20
mounted in between pairs of nuts on the free thread, to allow the separation=
of=20
the plates to be adjusted and locked. Four NdFeB magnets 1/8" thick by 1" sq=
uare=20
are mounted on the inside faces of the plates. A N+S pair on one face i=
s=20
opposed by a S+N pair on the other. The sensor coil is mounted at the centre=
of=20
the high intensity magnetic field.
This construction gives quite an effective magn=
etic=20
and electrostatic screen around the coil. The external stray field is low. T=
he=20
sensitivity is high due to the high field and the response is reasonably lin=
ear.=20
If you use rectangular instead of round coils, it can be made very highly li=
near=20
over +/-1/2" movement.
For induced current damping, I=20
use four NdFeB bar magnets 1"x1/2"x1/4" thick in two opposing squa=
res,=20
with the same 1/4" steel plate mounting, but with a much smaller magnet=20
separation. I use a copper damping plate, 1/16" to 1/8" thick as=20
appropriate, a bit over 2" wide and 2.5" free length. This allows=20=
the=20
arm to swing +/-1/2" without the edge of the copper plate overlapping the ed=
ge=20
of the 1" magnet square. The N+S join of the magnet pairs is set perpendicul=
ar=20
to the direction of motion. The damping is adjusted by varying by the length=
of=20
copper tongue overlapping the magnet square and also by varying the separati=
on=20
of the 1/4" mild steel plates and hence the magnet separations. Most of the=20
damping occurs close to the central N/S magnet join. This is a very effectiv=
e=20
and easily adjusted design of damper.
I have also used soft Al damping plates, but Al=
is=20
usually more strongly paramagnetic than the copper is diamagnetic and it has=
a=20
higher resistivity. I use the damping plate to physically limit the sideways=
=20
travel of the seismometer arm. If the plate is made narrower and the arm dri=
fts,=20
you may get 'odd' force effects as the edge of the plate gets close to=20=
the=20
outside edge of the magnets. Al is usually mildly paramagnetic, but copper i=
s=20
usually diamagnetic.
<=
FONT=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size=
=3D2>I can't=20
imagine how you could safely create a one inch gap with those monstrous=20
magnets. They would take off a finger or two if you were not careful in=20
keeping them apart.
With some difficulty and great care=
!=20
Neo magnets start to get dangerous above about 1/4" thick, 1/2"=20
square. I have a pair 2" square by 1/2" thick. I can't put eno=
ugh=20
finger force on them to even slide them apart. I use wood blocks=20
and an A frame work bench. Two of these magnets will 'jump=20
together' if less than about a foot apart. Only ever=20
handle ONE free magnet at a time!
<=
FONT=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size=
=3D2>No one=20
talks about safety when playing with springs and stuff so I guess no amate=
urs=20
have had any serious accidents trying to build these=20
seismometers.
Oh yes they do! Sean's EMails carried several=20
warnings about dry wall scraper spring systems.
Construction.
Cut and file the 2"x1/4" bright mild steel to=20
length. Mark out the 3 or 4 bolt holes to choice on one plate, the=
n=20
clamp the two plates together and drill all the clearance holes through=
=20
both plates at the same time. Mark the plate orientation with a centre=20
punch. This ensures perfect bolt alignment. Degrease, then coat the ste=
el=20
with acid anti rust liquid / paste, leave for ~10 min and wipe off with=
a=20
dry tissue. Let the plates dry. Mark the positions of the magnets,=20
nuts and washers and paint all other surfaces with Hammerit=
e or=20
a similar anti rust paint.
Lightly grease the bolts, the clearance holes,=20
exposed iron and the nuts. Fully assemble one plate with bolts and fing=
er=20
tight nuts. Check that the other plate fits on cleanly and fully tighten the=
=20
nuts. Fit a second nut on each bolt leaving about 3/4" thread between the nu=
ts.=20
Lightly grease and wipe the magnet mounting spa=
ces.=20
Separate a magnet, clean any dust or debris off it using gaffer sticky tape,=
=20
apply it to the edge of the steel plate and slide it into position. Check th=
at a=20
second magnet has opposite top surface polarity and slide it into position.=20
Check the orientation of the free plate and assemble opposite polarity magne=
ts=20
on it - a N/S magnet pair on one plate opposes S/N pair on the other.
Slide the free plate onto the mounting bolts,=20
recheck the magnet polarity, adjust the nuts to give the desired magnet gap=20
separation and fit the lock nuts. Wipe off any excess grease.
http://www.amazingmagnets.com/&n=
bsp;=20
and http://www.kjmagnetics.com/ in=
the=20
US stock a wide range of NdFeB magnets amongst many other sources.
Geoff, you raised the question of how great a S=
/N=20
ratio you can get. My 16 bit ADC gives me a 90 dB range. When I was=20
developing my LVDT sensor, I managed to get about 7 nano metre noise ov=
er a=20
6 mm linear movement with 10 Hz bandwidth. This is not far short of 120=
dB.=20
However, my local ambient ground noise is well over 10x this and it is stron=
gly=20
dependant on the weather, the local traffic and the time of day. T=
his=20
is my practical concern and it is the major limitation for a lot of 'amateur=
'=20
systems. Many professional systems use deep boreholes remote from human=20
activity. I agree with Dave on the desirability of burying geophones to=
=20
reduce the pickup of surface noise.
With a low noise geophone / coil type amplifier=
,=20
you should be able to get quite a bit below 1 micro V input noise for 10 Hz=20
bandwidth without using 'special' circuits. If you were prepared to build a=20
chopper amplifier, you would likely get below 100 nano V.
Roger Sparks commented on the presence of ocean=
=20
microseisms masking small quakes. It is possible to use a twin Tee variable=20
width bandstop filter to remove ~50 dB of this signal. The signals are=20
usually quite narrow band, although they do vary in period around the world=20=
and=20
with time.
Regards,
Chris Chapman