Jon,
I looked at your posted photos. There's a few things you should consider changing.

1. Eliminate the spliced connection (rc connectors?) and wire the cable directly to the geophones.

2. Completely seal the geophone housing. [For a sealant, look for GE Contractor Bath/Plumbing products, GE6040 (clear) and GE6070 (white). They are specifically formulated to be non-corrosive to metals.]

3. With the housing for the geophones sealed, the plastic bucket becomes far less important for keeping water out. In fact, because of the way you have the hose connected, I'd suggest that you dump the sand out of the bucket then drill or punch a series of 1-cm holes in the bottom. Install a piece of window screen on the bottom then add about 2 or 3-inches of coarse gravel (1 to 2-cm dia) then place another piece of screen. Now fill the bucket the rest of the way with your sand and install the geophone housing.

Over a long period of time, particularly in your climate, you'll get condensate forming on the inside of the hose and it will eventually make its way to the plastic bucket. By poking holes in the bottom, excess moisture can excape. The gravel layer will break the capillary tension and minimize the amount of moisture held in the sand.


After looking at some of your recent traces, it appears that you do not always turn off your acquisition system when you're moving or otherwise working on the geophones. As a matter of standard practice, you should always turn off the system (or at least disconnect the geophone cables) when moving things around. Even slight jostling of the geophones can generate a pretty strong signal -- well in excess of 10-volts -- that can over-saturate or even damage some DAC boards.

Regards,
-Tim-

-------------- Original message from Jón Frímann : -------------- 


> Hi 
> 
> It smells, this I was able to get here is called, everbuild everflex 
> premium+ 500, bath & sanitary silicon. The main problem with this is 
> that it doesn't stick to a plastic, it comes right off it appears. It 
> also needs 24 hours to dry. 
> 
> Regards. 
> -- 
> Jón Frímann 
> http://www.jonfr.com 
> http://www.simnet.is/jonfr500/earthquake/ 
> 
> __________________________________________________________ 
> 
> Public Seismic Network Mailing List (PSN-L) 
> 
> To leave this list email PSN-L-REQUEST@.............. with 
> the body of the message (first line only): unsubscribe 






Jon,
I looked at your posted photos. There's a few things you should consider changing.
 
1. Eliminate the spliced connection (rc connectors?) and wire the cable directly to the geophones.
 
2. Completely seal the geophone housing. [For a sealant, look for GE Contractor Bath/Plumbing products, GE6040 (clear) and GE6070 (white). They are specifically formulated to be non-corrosive to metals.]
 
3. With the housing for the geophones sealed, the plastic bucket becomes far less important for keeping water out. In fact, because of the way you have the hose connected, I'd suggest that you dump the sand out of the bucket then drill or punch a series of 1-cm holes in the bottom. Install a piece of window screen on the bottom then add about 2 or 3-inches of coarse gravel (1 to 2-cm dia) then place another piece of screen. Now fill the bucket the rest of the way with your sand and install the geophone housing.
 
Over a long period of time, particularly in your climate, you'll get condensate forming on the inside of the hose and it will eventually make its way to the plastic bucket. By poking holes in the bottom, excess moisture can excape. The gravel layer will break the capillary tension and minimize the amount of moisture held in the sand.
 
 
After looking at some of your recent traces, it appears that you do not always turn off your acquisition system when you're moving or otherwise working on the geophones. As a matter of standard practice, you should always turn off the system (or at least disconnect the geophone cables) when moving things around. Even slight jostling of the geophones can generate a pretty strong signal -- well in excess of 10-volts -- that can over-saturate or even damage some DAC boards.
 
Regards,
-Tim-
 
-------------- Original message from Jón Frímann <jonfr500@.........>: -------------- 


> Hi 
> 
> It smells, this I was able to get here is called, everbuild everflex 
> premium+ 500, bath & sanitary silicon. The main problem with this is 
> that it doesn't stick to a plastic, it comes right off it appears. It 
> also needs 24 hours to dry. 
> 
> Regards. 
> -- 
> Jón Frímann 
> http://www.jonfr.com 
> http://www.simnet.is/jonfr500/earthquake/ 
> 
> __________________________________________________________ 
> 
> Public Seismic Network Mailing List (PSN-L) 
> 
> To leave this list email PSN-L-REQUEST@.............. with 
> the body of the message (first line only): unsubscribe 
> See http://www.seismicnet.com/maillist.html for more information.