In a message dated 10/02/2008, lconklin@............ writes:
<=
FONT=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size=
=3D2>Thanks=20
for your suggestions. I haven't yet made any serious attempt to
=
work=20
the current manifestation of this problem, mostly for lack of new
idea=
s=20
for something new to try.
Hi Larry,
You have to approach fault finding step by=20
step.
1 Check the PSU lines for DC level and AC noise=
=20
first.
2 Visually check all solder joints with a=20
magnifying glass. These are the commonest problems.
3 When the system is noisy, disconnect the=20
oscillator drive, observe any change in the trace and then connect it again.=
=20
Also measure the DC level on the TP output of the first opamp.
4 Check the two sensors for operation.
5 Assuming that here is no significant change,=20
disconnect the drive again, short the input and observe the output and DC le=
vel=20
changes. Try unplugging the sensors in sequence
6 If you can't use a freezer can, try pushing /=
=20
tapping components with a plastic rod.
7 Definitely check for crevice corrosion under=20
solder joints.
8 Clean and put vaseline on the input plugs. Ni=
ckel=20
and particularly chrome plugs develop tough oxide coatings in the damp.
9 You can brush coat the circuit tracks with=20
polyurethane single pack varnish. You can solder through it if necessary.
Because you have changed the opamp does not mea=
n=20
that the new opamp is good! When I change opamps, I usually fit a plug in=20
holder. You can wreck an opamp by overheating it during soldering.
Regards,
Chris Chapman
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