PSN-L Email List Message

Subject: RE: How much mass ?
From: "Stephen Hammond" shammon1@.............
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 09:37:46 -0800


 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: psn-l-request@.............. [mailto:psn-l-request@...............
On Behalf Of ChrisAtUpw@.......
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 6:49 AM
To: psn-l@..............
Subject: Re: How much mass ?
 
In a message dated 2008/02/14, shammon1@............. writes:
See comment below:


Hi, Jon, I like to use the old style Lehman design. The device I built
with the best results was the PSN San Jose Lehmans which used a 1-in
square aluminum rod L= 80cm and 80-ounce lead mass. They had a natural
period of 20-seconds with minimal setup effort. The total boom length
was 100cm and they used a brass plate mounted at the end of the boom for
the damping. I was very happy with the performance. One of the issues
you will face is the selection of the gauge of the upper support wire. I
tried to use #8 machine (piano) wire but it kept breaking during use. I
increased the wire gauge to #10 machine wire and the wire life was about
1-year before rust causes the wire to snap under tension. 


Hi Steve,

       If you use D'Addario piano wire, it comes protected with Nickel
plating.
       Use either Aluminum or Copper plate for the damper. Al works, but
1/16" Cu is better.
       I use 1" square x 1/8" thick NdFeB magnets for the sensor and 1"
x 1/2" x 1/4" thick NdFeB magnets for the damper, four off in both
cases. A N/S pair on one 1/4" backing plate faces a S/N pair on the
other backing plate. The backing plates are held in position by 1/4"
zinc plated mild steel bolts. This greatly reduces any stray field. 
       Put the coil on the arm and the magnet on the base. If you put a
magnet on the arm, you will pick up a lot of magnetic noise from the
house wiring, passing trains and lorries etc.
 
Update 2/14/08: Thanks Chris, I'll try mounting the coil on the boom in
the next revision. I never wanted to deal with the lead wires off the
rear of the boom. Do you have any tips for frictionless lead wires? 
Steve H. 




When I moved here to Aptos, California I was forced to reduce the length
of the boom to L=60cm because of limited space as seen in the photos in
the link below and the resulting natural period is now typically 10-12
seconds. Needless to say, the performance these Lehmans are marginal and
I live near the ocean and the wave action causes them to osculate during
storms. 


       You should be able to get 30 seconds out of a 60 cm arm quite OK.
Most period limitations are caused by a poor lower suspension, such as a
point in a cup or knife edge. It improves the period if you put the mass
at the end of the arm. 
       Use 3/4" square or round Al tube for the arm - definitely not
solid. You want to keep the arm light but rigid compared to the mass. I
use 15 mm SS water pipe + plumbing fittings
       The bottom hinge should be ball on a plane or crossed cylinder.
You put the SS ball on the upright and the SS / WC plane / SS blade the
end of the arm. For WC rod, you can use 1/8" Tungsten Carbide drill
shanks, with the vertical on the upright. See www.smallparts.com. You
can also buy type 416 SS 1/4" shoulder bolts from McMaster Carr.
www.mcmaster.com
       If you construct a double T frame similar to
http://www.bgs.ac.uk/education/school_seismology/seismometer.html you
can set up the system and then trim the response - all adjustments are
sequential, not inter related like on the psn designs. This makes setup
and adjustment far easier. The red block is a support, with a horizontal
damping blade and the sliding damping magnet is placed on the bottom
frame. The coil is fixed to the outside end and swings between the other
magnet block. The diagonal Al support tube prevents rotation. 
       I used 3" x 1" Al U Channel with triangular 6" x 6" x 1/8" Al
plates to support the joint in the prototype. This is easy to make and
to set up. I use 1/4" SS bolts.



My suggestion is to use the calculation seen on this list to determine
the boom length you desire. Then plan the design based on that
calculation. You said you wanted a device with a period of 20-second and
as pointed out below by Chris, L is based on the length of the boom
measured from the pivot point to the center of the mass weight (Chris,
do you have this calculation?). I have found that setting the device up
this way also reduces the impact of ground deformation (boom does not
remains level and centered) over time which improves the overall
operation of the device keeping the boom off the stops. 
http://pw2.netcom.com/~shammon1/AptosStn.htm


       If the distance between the hinge and the centre of mass is L
metres and the suspension angle is A, the period T = 2xPixSqrt(L / (9.81
x sin(A))) I use 0.56 m which would give a 1.5 sec pendulum if held
vertically. A is ~1/3 degree.
       Alnico magnets are now quite expensive. NdFeB magnets are much
cheaper and give a much higher output. For damper and coil designs -
click on Lehman at http://jclahr.com/science/psn/chapman/ Make the
damping blade wide so that it covers both magnets at all times as shown.
       There is also an alternative design under muventures.
       The boom does not have to be level, but it should be adjusted
parallel with the lower frame. Then you can simply slide the damping
magnet further over the horizontal damping blade to adjust the damping.
       You adjust the whole rigid frame to centre the arm and to set the
period. I use three SS plates glued to the concrete floor for the screw
adjusters. I glued SS bearings into the end of the adjust bolts. Then
they don't move about / wander when you adjust them. The SS mounting
nuts are glued to the underside of the frame.

       Regards,

       Chris Chapman 



















 =

 

-----Original = Message-----
From: = psn-l-request@.............. [mailto:psn-l-request@............... On Behalf Of ChrisAtUpw@.......
Sent: =
Thursday, February 14, = 2008 6:49 AM
To: = psn-l@..............
Subject: Re: How much = mass ?

 

In a message dated = 2008/02/14, shammon1@............. writes:
See comment = below:

= Hi, Jon, I like to use the old style Lehman design. The device I built with the = best results was the PSN San Jose Lehmans which used a 1-in square aluminum = rod L=3D 80cm and 80-ounce lead mass. They had a natural period of 20-seconds = with minimal setup effort. The total boom length was 100cm and they used a = brass plate mounted at the end of the boom for the damping. I was very happy = with the performance. One of the issues you will face is the selection of the = gauge of the upper support wire. I tried to use #8 machine (piano) wire but it = kept breaking during use. I increased the wire gauge to #10 machine wire and = the wire life was about 1-year before rust causes the wire to snap under = tension.

=

Hi Steve,

       If you use D'Addario piano wire, it = comes protected with Nickel plating.
       Use either Aluminum or Copper plate = for the damper. Al works, but 1/16" Cu is better.
       I use 1" square x 1/8" = thick NdFeB magnets for the sensor and 1" x 1/2" x 1/4" thick = NdFeB magnets for the damper, four off in both cases. A N/S pair on one = 1/4" backing plate faces a S/N pair on the other backing plate. The backing = plates are held in position by 1/4" zinc plated mild steel bolts. This = greatly reduces any stray field.
       Put the coil on the arm and the = magnet on the base. If you put a magnet on the arm, you will pick up a lot of = magnetic noise from the house wiring, passing trains and lorries etc.

 

Update = = 2/14/08: Thanks Chris, I’ll try mounting the = coil on the boom in the next revision. I never wanted to deal with the lead = wires off the rear of the boom. Do you have any tips for frictionless lead = wires?

Steve H. =




= When I moved here to Aptos, California I was forced to reduce the length of the = boom to L=3D60cm because of limited space as seen in the photos in the link = below and the resulting natural period is now typically 10-12 seconds. Needless to = say, the performance these Lehmans are marginal and I live near the ocean and = the wave action causes them to osculate during storms. =

=

       You should be = able to get 30 seconds out of a 60 cm arm quite OK. Most period limitations are = caused by a poor lower suspension, such as a point in a cup or knife edge. It = improves the period if you put the mass at the end of the arm.
       Use 3/4" square or round Al = tube for the arm - definitely not solid. You want to keep the arm light but rigid compared to the mass. I use 15 mm SS water pipe + plumbing fittings
       The bottom hinge should be ball on = a plane or crossed cylinder. You put the SS ball on the upright and the SS / WC = plane / SS blade the end of the arm. For WC rod, you can use 1/8" Tungsten = Carbide drill shanks, with the vertical on the upright. See www.smallparts.com. = You can also buy type 416 SS 1/4" shoulder bolts from McMaster Carr. www.mcmaster.com
       If you construct a double T frame = similar to http://www.bgs.ac.uk/education/school_seismology/seismometer.html you = can set up the system and then trim the response - all adjustments are = sequential, not inter related like on the psn designs. This makes setup and = adjustment far easier. The red block is a support, with a horizontal damping blade and = the sliding damping magnet is placed on the bottom frame. The coil is fixed = to the outside end and swings between the other magnet block. The diagonal Al = support tube prevents rotation.
       I used 3" x 1" Al U = Channel with triangular 6" x 6" x 1/8" Al plates to support the joint = in the prototype. This is easy to make and to set up. I use 1/4" SS = bolts.



My suggestion is to use = the calculation seen on this list to determine the boom length you desire. = Then plan the design based on that calculation. You said you wanted a device = with a period of 20-second and as pointed out below by Chris, L is based on the = length of the boom measured from the pivot point to the center of the mass = weight (Chris, do you have this calculation?). I have found that setting the = device up this way also reduces the impact of ground deformation (boom does not = remains level and centered) over time which improves the overall operation of = the device keeping the boom off the stops.
http://pw2.netcom.c= om/~shammon1/AptosStn.htm



       If the distance = between the hinge and the centre of mass is L metres and the suspension angle is = A, the period T =3D 2xPixSqrt(L / (9.81 x sin(A))) I use 0.56 m which would = give a 1.5 sec pendulum if held vertically. A is ~1/3 degree.
       Alnico magnets are now quite = expensive. NdFeB magnets are much cheaper and give a much higher output. For damper = and coil designs - click on Lehman at http://jclahr.com/science/psn/chapman/ = Make the damping blade wide so that it covers both magnets at all times as = shown.
       There is also an alternative design = under muventures.
       The boom does not have to be level, = but it should be adjusted parallel with the lower frame. Then you can simply = slide the damping magnet further over the horizontal damping blade to adjust the = damping.
       You adjust the whole rigid frame to = centre the arm and to set the period. I use three SS plates glued to the = concrete floor for the screw adjusters. I glued SS bearings into the end of the = adjust bolts. Then they don't move about / wander when you adjust them. The SS mounting nuts are glued to the underside of the frame.

       Regards,


      
Chris = Chapman =


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