In a message dated 30/05/2010, jzambory@......... writes: I am new to this hobby of seismology. I have photos of everything I will refer to at: _www.flickr.com/photos/darksky123/_ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/darksky123/) I changed a few things. I thought it would be very difficult for me to made a perfect knife edge for the pivot point so I epoxyed a ball bearing to the end of my steel rod. I sanded smooth the surface that it rests on, (not sure what it is called). Seems to work? Hi Jeff, Good choice. Knife edges and point in a cup 'bearings' are almost guaranteed to fail, often sooner than later. They are both seriously inadequate. You need Stainless Steel or Tungsten Carbide ball bearings and a stainless steel or carbide counterface. See _www.smallparts.com_ (http://www.smallparts.com/) I bought a large SS scalpel blade and cut a square from it. Ordinary steel bearings corrode quite quickly - don't use them. Two part acrylic glue is much better than epoxy, which dries brittle and does not give it's best performance on polished surfaces. See _http://www.jclahr.com/science/psn/chapman/2008%20lehman/lehman_prototype.jpg_ (http://www.jclahr.com/science/psn/chapman/2008%20lehman/lehman_prototype.jpg) I checked the maximum period and was able to get 60 seconds quite OK, so I know that this construction works well. I normally set the seismometer to operate at 20 to 25 seconds with the 22" arm. Note that the mass is fitted to the end of the arm to get the maximum period. For my pickup magnet, I hung it down off the rod. I could not get it to hang properly when I tried it on the side of the rod. Made things twist. Do NOT mount the magnet on the arm. It gives noisy results sensing changes in the earth's magnetic field and surge currents in the house wiring. Put the coil on the arm. See _http://www.jclahr.com/science/psn/chapman/lehman/index.html_ (http://www.jclahr.com/science/psn/chapman/lehman/index.html) for the damping and sensor magnet block designs. You are far better off with a rectangular coil and NdFeB rectangular magnets. They are cheaper and more powerful than Alnico magnets. What damping is your arm it set to? Can you set it to 0.7 critical quite easily? If you displace the mass 10mm and release it, it should cross over the balance position by 0.5 mm. This is not difficult to measure with a ruler and a magnifying glass. You need a V suspension connected to a crossbar on the arm to prevent it from rotating about it's axis due to the offset drag from the damping plate. I use 30 lb 7 core nylon coated SS fishing trace with crimped loop ends. If you don't do this, you get odd looking signals produced by the coil sensing the rotation of the arm as well as the seismic displacement. I got a bolt for the thing that the wire attaches to on the top piece. To vary the period of the arm, I just adjusted the length of the bolt. I think that this may be your problem when trying to get a long period. What thickness of wire are you using? About 10 to 12 thou diameter wire works well. See _http://www.daddario.com_ (http://www.daddario.com/) Ask for wire for a mandolin. The suspension needs to be rigid with sharp edges on the clamp. I suggest that you use a 3/8" bolt. File off the thread for about 1/2" at the end. Then file off 1/3 the thickness of the bolt on the other side. Drill an 1/8" hole and use an 1/8" bolt and two washers to firmly clamp the suspension wire. So my question. I read that I should be able to detect magnitude 6 and greater for earthquake around the world. M 6.5 world wide. What really prompted me to write was not detecting the Vanuatu 7.2 quake from last week. I got a small squiggle, but not enough to put WinSDR into alarm and the time was a couple of minutes early from when the waves should have arrived according to the USGS. Compared to what I got with the Baja quake, I thought I should have gotten something. I get nothing. I am hoping the people will be able to point out improvements or mistakes that I am making. For my pick up coil, I originally had a coil from a relay. It was about an inch in diameter. It seemed to work for starting out. That was the pickup coil I was using when I got the Baja quake. I knew I had to get one with more turns of wire and a higher resistance, that one was only about 300 ohms. A local electronics shop had some 40AWG magnet wire, a 1/4 pound roll. I bought it and made a thing to roll it onto. 38 or 36 AWG wire is easier to handle. Make the rectangular former out of glass circuit board. Not really feeling like playing with that tiny wire again, I looked through an electronics supply catalogue and found a 110Vac power relay that stated a coil resistance of 11K ohms. Aim for a coil resistance of less than 500 Ohms. 10 k Ohms is far too high and it will be noisy. The question I have about it is, does size matter? The coil itself is only about 1/2' in diameter. I look at other amateur seismometers that I can find photos for and the coils are a lot larger. Should I get some larger gauge wire (36AWG?) and make a new coil? Or is the coil I have now OK? No. This coil is far too small to allow the mass to drift by up to +/-10mm. Size matters a lot. I believe the seismometer works. When I walk up to it, WinSDR shows movement and it usually goes into alarm unless I walk up very slowly. You should be able to see the ~6 second ocean microseisms at 100 to 200 counts. The period of my system is about ten seconds. That is about as long as I am able to get it. I can't seem to get the 14+ I read about for some systems. Should I fight with it to get a longer period, or is ten seconds long enough? 10 seconds is NOT long enough. You need 15 to 25 seconds. Is a ball bearing OK for a pivot point? Yes, provided that it is Stainless Steel and over 1/4" diameter. Mount the ball on the FRAME and the counterface on the end of the ARM - NOT the other way around! I sent a letter and photos to Mr. Cochrane and he told me to get rid of the wood I was using on my system. I had made a mount for the pick up coil magnet out of wood at first (it is now metal). It is easier for me to work with wood than metal. I have the copper plate for my dampening attached to the rod with a piece of wood. Is this OK? The original diagram I was working with says use wood. Should I get rid of it too and use metal? Wood tends to warp and the dimensions change with moisture levels. It needs to be thoroughly varnished to be reasonably stable - particularly the end grain. I have my seismometer orientated basically north-south. Is that OK for North America or should I point it east-west? Should be OK with the arm N/S Should I be getting more earthquakes?. Or for where I live, are things working as best as I can expect? Depends on where you are located. In a low seismic signal region, I get one or two teleseismic quakes per week as well as regional quakes. Check the drumplots daily? I am looking forward to my new hobby of seismology. If things work well I hope to make another one for the other direction and maybe even a vertical seismometer. I bought a three channel amp from Mr. Cochrane. Just in case... :-) Next time I suggest that you make a T frame out of 3" x 1" Aluminum U channel with 6" triangular x 1/8" thick corner plates. Use all Stainless Steel bolts, nuts, washers and fittings. I buy mine from a boat chandler. This construction is not only easier but much better. It allows you to set up all the working parts and clearances in sequence and you just tilt the whole frame to set the period. What metal is used for your arm? It should not be heavy in comparison to the mass. What mass do you use and how is it secured? Check _http://www.mutr.co.uk/images/Seismometer.pdf?osCsid=8cl12vb4vnhq2l65723jqa9em6_ (http://www.mutr.co.uk/images/Seismometer.pdf?osCsid=8cl12vb4vnhq2l65723jqa9em6) for the SEPUK seismometer manual. We have over 400 of these now operating in the UK and they seem to give excellent results with AmaSeis. Also check _http://www.bgs.ac.uk/schoolseismology/_ (http://www.bgs.ac.uk/schoolseismology/) for the school seismology project. Thanks for all your time. Kind of a long letter... Jeff Zambory Let me know if you need more help? Chris Chapman =20In a message dated 30/05/2010, jzambory@......... writes:I am new=20 to this hobby of seismology. I have photos of everything I will refer to= =20 at:
www.flick= r.com/photos/darksky123/
I=20 changed a few things. I thought it would be very difficult for me to mad= e a=20 perfect knife edge
for the pivot point so I epoxyed a ball bearing= to the=20 end of my steel rod. I sanded smooth the
surface that it rests on,= (not=20 sure what it is called). Seems to work?Hi Jeff,Good choice. Knife edges and point in a cup= =20 'bearings' are almost guaranteed to fail, often sooner than later. They ar= e both=20 seriously inadequate.You need Stainless Steel or Tungsten Carbide= ball=20 bearings and a stainless steel or carbide counterface. See www.smallparts.com I bought a large=20 SS scalpel blade and cut a square from it. Ordinary steel bearings corrode= quite=20 quickly - don't use them. Two part acrylic glue is much better than= epoxy,=20 which dries brittle and does not give it's best performance on polished=20 surfaces.See http://www.jclahr.com/sci= ence/psn/chapman/2008%20lehman/lehman_prototype.jpg I=20 checked the maximum period and was able to get 60 seconds quite OK, so I= know=20 that this construction works well. I normally set the seismometer to opera= te at=20 20 to 25 seconds with the 22" arm. Note that the mass is fitted to th= e end=20 of the arm to get the maximum period.For my=20 pickup magnet, I hung it down off the rod. I could not get it to hang pr= operly=20 when I
tried it on the side of the rod. Made things twist.=20Do NOT mount the magnet on the arm. It gives= noisy=20 results sensing changes in the earth's magnetic field and surge curre= nts in=20 the house wiring. Put the coil on the arm.See http://www.jclahr.com/science/psn/chapman/= lehman/index.html for=20 the damping and sensor magnet block designs.You are far better off with a rectangular coi= l and=20 NdFeB rectangular magnets. They are cheaper and more powerful than Alnico= =20 magnets.What damping is your arm it set to? Can= you=20 set it to 0.7 critical quite easily? If you displace the mass 10mm and rel= ease=20 it, it should cross over the balance position by 0.5 mm. This is not diffi= cult=20 to measure with a ruler and a magnifying glass.You need a V suspension connected to a crossb= ar on=20 the arm to prevent it from rotating about it's axis due to the offset drag= from=20 the damping plate. I use 30 lb 7 core nylon coated SS fishing trace with= crimped=20 loop ends. If you don't do this, you get odd looking signals produced by= the=20 coil sensing the rotation of the arm as well as the=20 seismic displacement.I got a=20 bolt for the thing that the wire attaches to on the top piece. To vary= the=20 period of the
arm, I just adjusted the length of the=20 bolt.I think that this may be your problem when tr= ying=20 to get a long period. What thickness of wire are you using? About 10 to 12= thou=20 diameter wire works well. See http:/= /www.daddario.com Ask for wire for a=20 mandolin. The suspension needs to be rigid with sharp edges on the cl= amp. I=20 suggest that you use a 3/8" bolt. File off the thread for about 1/2" at th= e end.=20 Then file off 1/3 the thickness of the bolt on the other side. Drill an 1/= 8"=20 hole and use an 1/8" bolt and two washers to firmly clamp the suspens= ion=20 wire.So my question. I read that I should be able to detect magnitude 6=20 and greater for earthquake
around the world.M 6.5 world wide.What really prompted me to write was= not detecting the=20 Vanuatu 7.2 quake from last week. I got a
small squiggle, but not en= ough=20 to put WinSDR into alarm and the time was a couple of
minutes early= from=20 when the waves should have arrived according to the USGS. Compared
t= o what=20 I got with the Baja quake, I thought I should have gotten something. I= get=20 nothing. I am hoping the people will be able to point out improveme= nts or=20 mistakes that I am making.
For my pick up coil, I originally had= a coil=20 from a relay. It was about an inch in diameter. It
seemed to work fo= r=20 starting out. That was the pickup coil I was using when I got the Baja= =20
quake. I knew I had to get one with more turns of wire and a higher= =20 resistance, that one was
only about 300 ohms. A local electronics sh= op had=20 some 40AWG magnet wire, a 1/4 pound
roll. I bought it and made a thi= ng to=20 roll it onto.38 or 36 AWG wire is easier to handle. Make= the=20 rectangular former out of glass circuit board.&nb= sp;Not really feeling like playing with that tiny wire again, I=20 looked through an electronics supply catalogue and found a 110Vac power= relay=20 that stated a coil resistance of 11K=20 ohms. Aim for a coil resistance of less than 500 Oh= ms. 10=20 k Ohms is far too high and it will be noisy.The=20 question I have about it is, does size matter? The coil itself is
on= ly=20 about 1/2' in diameter. I look at other amateur seismometers that I can= find=20 photos for
and the coils are a lot larger. Should I get some larger= gauge=20 wire (36AWG?) and make a
new coil? Or is the coil I have now=20 OK?No. This coil is far too small to allow the= mass to=20 drift by up to +/-10mm.Size matters a lot.I=20 believe the seismometer works. When I walk up to it, WinSDR shows moveme= nt and=20 it
usually goes into alarm unless I walk up very slowly.You should be able to see the ~6 second= ocean=20 microseisms at 100 to 200 counts.The=20 period of my system is about ten seconds. That is about as long as I am= able=20 to get it. I
can't seem to get the 14+ I read about for some systems= ..=20 Should I fight with it to get a longer
period, or is ten seconds lon= g=20 enough?10 seconds is NOT long enough. You need 15 to= =20 25 seconds.Is a=20 ball bearing OK for a pivot point?Yes, provided that it is Stainless Steel= and=20 over 1/4" diameter. Mount the ball on the FRAME and the counterface on the= end=20 of the ARM - NOT the other way around!I sent a=20 letter and photos to Mr. Cochrane and he told me to get rid of the wood= I was=20 using
on my system. I had made a mount for the pick up coil magnet= out of=20 wood at first (it is now
metal). It is easier for me to work with wo= od=20 than metal. I have the copper plate for my
dampening attached to the= rod=20 with a piece of wood. Is this OK? The original diagram I was
working= with=20 says use wood. Should I get rid of it too and use=20 metal?Wood tends to warp and the dimensions change= with=20 moisture levels. It needs to be thoroughly varnished to be reasonably stab= le -=20 particularly the end grain.I have my seismometer orientated basically north-south. Is that OK=20 for North America or
should I point it east-west?Should be OK with the arm N/SShould I=20 be getting more earthquakes?. Or for where I live, are things working as= best=20 as I can
expect?Depends on where you are located. In a low se= ismic=20 signal region, I get one or two teleseismic quakes per week as well= as=20 regional quakes. Check the drumplots daily?I am=20 looking forward to my new hobby of seismology. If things work well I hop= e to=20 make
another one for the other direction and maybe even a vertical= =20 seismometer. I bought a three
channel amp from Mr. Cochrane. Just in= =20 case... :-)Next time I suggest that you make a T fr= ame=20 out of 3" x 1" Aluminum U channel with 6" triangular x 1/8" thick corner= plates.=20 Use all Stainless Steel bolts, nuts, washers and fittings. I buy mine= from=20 a boat chandler. This construction is not only easier but much better. It= allows=20 you to set up all the working parts and clearances in sequence and you jus= t tilt=20 the whole frame to set the period.What metal is used for your arm? It should no= t be=20 heavy in comparison to the mass. What mass do you use and how is it secure= d?=20Check http://www.mutr.co.= uk/images/Seismometer.pdf?osCsid=3D8cl12vb4vnhq2l65723jqa9em6 for= =20 the SEPUK seismometer manual. We have over 400 of these now operating in= the UK=20 and they seem to give excellent results with AmaSeis. Also check http://www.bgs.ac.uk/schoolsei= smology/ for=20 the school seismology project.Thanks=20 for all your time. Kind of a long letter...
Jeff=20 ZamboryLet me know if you need more help?<= FONT style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=3D#000000 size=3D2 fac= e=3DArial> Chris Chapman<= /DIV>[ Top ] [ Back ] [ Home Page ]