I have used successfully in the past the clear two part epoxy
glue to fasten plastic terminal strips to the outside
of coffee cans. They took quite a bit of torque
and never failed but you need very clean surfaces
like use 99% alcohol to clean the surfaces then
clean them again of the alcohol residue after it
dries. For wet places goto the boat section at Walmart
where there is some very expensive marine two part epoxy
which might be water proof. I just tried it outside
to see how well it works.
24 hours untouched is necessary for a solid cure.
No matter the set time.
Even with super glue.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "meredith lamb" 
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2010 1:18 PM
Subject: Re: A Sticky Question


> Jerry,
> 
> Yes, glue is a real problem over a variety of materials that need to be
> glued.
> 
> As far as commercially available brands (USA), there is one plastic glue
> I've come to favor; and that is
> Devcon brand, Plastic Welder.  Its a two part mixing glue that is meant for
> a variety of materials
> like hard plastic, vinyl, pvc piping, fiberglass (and metals and concrete).
> Net volume 25ml.  Available
> in Ace Hardware stores and likely a variety of other sources; for roughly
> $6.  Its a plunger outlet nozzle.
> A little can go a long ways with your use.  One problem with re-use is
> clearing out the plunger tips
> with a nail (etc.) to allow free flow.  It's flammable, stinky stuff, and
> best to ventilate or use outdoors.
> It makes no mention of being waterproof; but I've used such in a
> magnet/metal holding fixture in a
> bathroom for ~ 3 years; and has seen no failure yet.  This does not bond to
> polyethylene or polypropylene
> plastics.
> 
> I've used it on cloth to metal, metal to rubber and once even (clean) carbon
> plate to carbon plate with amazing
> (no failure yet, over ~ 2 years).  Some of these parts come into physical
> force contact and separation;
> but thus far its has been holding well.
> 
> Once mixed it begins to harden very fast.  Although tricky to do, removing
> unwanted excess might call
> for another person (or holder) to hold the glued object, and wiping the
> unwanted excess off with a damp cloth.
> I usually let it dry for a full day; but it could be shorter duration.
> 
> How well, long term it actually holds is probably dependent somewhat on
> having clean surfaces to begin
> with.  The actual holding force is unknown...I'am not sure at all as to the
> forces exposed to with coil
> winding forms.  One might conceivably try out bonding scrap pieces, letting
> dry, and physically trying
> to separate, bend, torque them; before application into your final project.
> 
> Another glue is the same brand; Devcon 2 part "5 minute epoxy", but its
> relegated only to metal & wood,
> concrete, glass & china and ceramics.  Probably good for ~ frame parts
> holding.
> 
> Take care, Meredith
> 
> On Mon, Jul 19, 2010 at 7:42 AM, GPayton  wrote:
> 
>>  In years past, I had difficulties in finding a "manual" coil winder and
>> ended up with an old fashioned had drill.  (As you know, you have to search
>> using the correct words or your mouth pursed just right to be successful.)
>>
>> Anyway, that hand drill is what I ended up with.  The EBay choices shown by
>> Barry are interesting.  Thanks, Barry.
>>
>> Never-the-less, in past, I had more trouble finding proper shaped
>> ready-made spools or bobbins to wind a coil.  And, if I tried to construct a
>> rectangular shaped form, I had trouble getting the sandwiched parts to stick
>> together!  I suppose that I did not have the correct adhesive.  I tried
>> several without satisfaction.
>>
>> If anyone knows the secret to building a rectangular form, materials &
>> glue, I'd appreciate knowing it.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Jerry
>>
>>
>>
>
__________________________________________________________

Public Seismic Network Mailing List (PSN-L)