PSN-L Email List Message

Subject: 1 RPM Synchronous Motor
From: Jan Froom JDarwin@.............
Date: Sat, 05 Mar 2011 13:20:08 -0800


It was simply the old insulation giving way.
I was able to use an exacto knife to remove some of the old tape...
and I think I see enough of a pig tail to hopefully reattach new leads.

Actually the way the drum is attached to the drive mechanism is quite 
interesting.
The threads on the drive screw are such that if the drum gets jammed, 
the drive screw
unscrews its self, releasing the drum gear attachment.   Cleaver design!
Sometimes however when you don't tighten that connection properly... you 
come in the
next day to find the drum detached... and all the recording at one spot 
on the drum.

Thanks for the comments and suggestions!   Jan in Gilroy

On 3/5/2011 9:49 AM, Daryl P. Dacko wrote:
> On 3/5/2011 10:47 AM, Geoffrey wrote:
>> Is There a possibility the bearing of the drum are frozen ?
>>
>> Electric motors will draw considerable current if
>> they do not turn.
>> As the rpm builds a counter EMF develops which lowers the
>> current draw.
>> Before you install any replacement motors,
>> make sure the drum turns with minimum of
>> mechanical resistance.
>> I understand WD40 is not right for delicate machines.
>> ( don’t understand why)
>
> Those little clock type motors don't draw excessive current if stalled.
> Likely the insulation went due to age.
>
> WD40 isn't a lubricant, even if it says so on the can.
> It was developed to displace water and clean out crud. (WD40 = water 
> displacement formula 40)
>
> I repaired instruments for years and the best all purpose lubricant 
> I've used is Tri-Flow.
> It's great on just about any delicate instrument, except where a light 
> grease is needed.
>
> Just my 2 cent's worth...
> Daryl the former instrument tech...
>
>
>
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>
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>


  
    
  
  
    It was simply the old insulation giving way.   
I was able to use an exacto knife to remove some of the old tape...
and I think I see enough of a pig tail to hopefully reattach new leads.

Actually the way the drum is attached to the drive mechanism is quite interesting.
The threads on the drive screw are such that if the drum gets jammed, the drive screw
unscrews its self, releasing the drum gear attachment.   Cleaver design!
Sometimes however when you don't tighten that connection properly... you come in the
next day to find the drum detached... and all the recording at one spot on the drum.

Thanks for the comments and suggestions!   Jan in Gilroy

On 3/5/2011 9:49 AM, Daryl P. Dacko wrote:
On 3/5/2011 10:47 AM, Geoffrey wrote:
Is There a possibility the bearing of the drum are frozen ?

Electric motors will draw considerable current if
they do not turn.
As the rpm builds a counter EMF develops which lowers the
current draw.
Before you install any replacement motors,
make sure the drum turns with minimum of
mechanical resistance.
I understand WD40 is not right for delicate machines.
( don’t understand why)

Those little clock type motors don't draw excessive current if stalled.
Likely the insulation went due to age.

WD40 isn't a lubricant, even if it says so on the can.
It was developed to displace water and clean out crud. (WD40 = water displacement formula 40)

I repaired instruments for years and the best all purpose lubricant I've used is Tri-Flow.
It's great on just about any delicate instrument, except where a light grease is needed.

Just my 2 cent's worth...
Daryl the former instrument tech...



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